A Good Year (or two)

 

 

Intense, sophisticated yet lively. As charming as 007, are the 2007/2008 Burgundies.

It’s never too late to report on a vintage. In fact, it’s best to do the report years after the wines have been bottled, when the wines are in the barrel.

 

Pronouncements about the 2007 and 2008 vintages of Burgundy during spring and summer had to be modified. The weather and climate changed and shaped the quality and quantity of the fruit during the growing season and harvest. Here is a selection of tasting notes on the most memorable wines I tasted in November 2009 during the Hospice de Beaune wine auction and in March 2010 at the Grands Jours Burgundy wine exhibition.

 

Both tastings demonstrate that 2007 is a lovely vintage. Reds are approachable if tannins are not hefty. The wines are sophisticated, textured and make for delicious drinking. Whites are pure, exquisitely balanced and are starting to drink very well.

As for the 2008 vintage, it has been lauded as one of the best vintages for Chablis in the last 25 years. These wines have all the qualities — intensity, minerality, balance, and liveliness. In all, excellent reds and whites mark the 2008 vintage for Burgundy as a whole.

 

 

The 2007 Vintage

 

It began with a mild winter followed by some unusual warmth in March and even more heat in April. The result of a little too much sunshine accelerated all things natural. Buds burst out and flowering got underway. Growers were sure they were heading for a hot year. Maybe like in 2003, when the heatwave hit.

 

Everything pointed towards an early harvest in mid-August, and it was likely that New Worldly, fruit-driven wines would be made. Then unexpectedly, came some cooler months with rain. Ironically, growers started worrying again, this time about when the grapes will ripen. Thankfully, warmer days resumed in August and September. Growers breathed a sigh of relief, reciting the oft bandied phrase, “Dieu est un Bourguignon” (God is indeed a Burgundian). Growers that sorted their grapes ended up with a good, normal sized harvest of Pinot Noirs with good aromas, and Chardonnays, with a nice acid backbone. While some of these best reds are multidimensional, the whites have been admired for their precise presentation with good tension.

 

Red

Dujac, Morey St. Denis, 1er Cru — Truffles, prunes and red fruit, elegantly presented. Fine and silky tannins, a light and approachable wine that will continue to improve with time.

 

Comte Armand, Pommard, 1er Cru, “Clos des Epeneaux” — Red fruit, a hint of raspberries and spice, sticky tannins and lovely finish.

 

Camille Giroud, Vosne-Romanée, 1er Cru — Lots of tannins and good acid structure, still quite closed but with some spicy notes revealed. A keeper.

 

Frédéric Magnien, Charmes-Chambertin, Grand Cru — Perfumed nose, full broad in the mouth with soft silky tannin.

 

White

Jacques Prieur Meursault, 1er Cru “Les Perrieres” — Stone fruits, minerals, honey, butter, soft yet with supporting acids. Rich and fruity yet floral also. Long.

 

Pierre Morey, Meursault — Vanilla, white fruits and incredibly balanced. Elegant, soft, round and hint of honey.

 

Sebastien Magnien, Meursault, 1er Cru, “Les Meix Chavaux” — White fruits, generous, round, fresh and sprightly acidity, silky finish.

 

Bret Brothers, La Soufrandière, Pouilly-Vinzelles, Climat les Quarts — Smooth, rich, yet elegant wine with tasty acids and a very long tail.

 

Vincent Dureuil-Janthial, Rully Blanc, “Maizieres” — Lovely crisp presentation with minerals and citrus.

 

 

 

The 2008 Vintage

 

Spring came off with a good start.  It was warm and by mid-May, vines were producing leaves.  But a summer with lots of rain meant a cold and wet season. Vignerons even experienced hail in their vineyards. The result? Rot, mildew, oidium, and ultimately a reduced crop. Everyone was lamenting on the state of the vintage. Then came the miracle. Autumn brought with it the sun and bright skies. Not only that, windy days were just the thing to dry out the vines and vineyards, bringing a halt to the rot. With good weather all the way through, the vintage was saved.

 

Though vignerons ended up with fewer and smaller grapes, the juice was quite concentrated as a result. At the end, wines from the basic Bourgogne right up to the Grand Cru turned out to be quite elegant, with good acids (thanks to the cool temperatures throughout the year) and considerable grace. Reds were pure while whites were delicious.

 

Red

Ponsot Clos St. Denis “Tres Vielles Vignes”, Grand Cru (in barrel) — Red and black fruit, herbs pepper spice. Developing every few minutes beginning with fruity notes then flower petals, then mixed spice. It is balanced, silky soft yet with ever-present tannins. Very long finish.

 

Dujac, Bonne Mares, Grand Cru — Subtle floral aromas with rich fruity notes, silky tannins, broad and elegant presentation.

 

Sorine et Fils, Maranges 1er Cru “Clos Roussot” — Fruity, light yet present with acids. Soft as fleece. Delicious.

 

Georges Chicotot, Nuits St.-Georges 1er Cru “Les Vaucrains” — Fruity with white pepper, hint of jam and minerals.

 

Didier-Montchovet, Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Beaune — Silky soft. Full-on flavour balanced with a sweet note.

 

Genot-Boulanger, Pommard 1er Cru, “Clos Blanc” — Fruity with hints of strawberry, Spicy and with tasty acids.

 

Domaine Romanée Conti, Romanée Conti, Grand Cru (in barrel) — Sweet fruit and spice, yet understated. Big structure with lacy tannins, yet elegant. Long, sensual and unforgettable.

 

Stéphane Brocard, Corton-Renardes, Grand Cru — Intense with lots of layers. Spicy and silky with good structure.

 

Bouchard Aîné & Fils, Charmes Chambertin, Grand Cru — Smoky with woody overtones but balanced by fruit. Broad in the mouth.

 

Albert Bichot, Echezeaux, Grand Cru — Perfumed and quite feminine with good structure and a long finish.

 

White

Henri de Villamont, Chablis Vaudesir Grand Cru — Lots of fruit and balance. Complex and complete.

 

Joseph Drouhin, Chablis Bougros, Grand Cru — Lots of different aromas mingling together, including herbs, flowers, nuts and marmalade. Lively.

 

Louis Latour, Corton-Charlemagne, Grand Cru — Minerals, almonds, good structure and ample in the mouth.

 

Roux Père & Fils Corton-Charlemagne, Grand Cru — Pears, ripe fruit, tasty acids and round.

 

Seguin Manuel Corton-Charlemagne, Grand Cru — Mineral oil, balanced, luscious in the mouth and long.

 

Domaine des Perdrix, Nuits-Saint Georges, Blanc, 1er Cru, “Les Terres Blanches”— Brimming with pear, grapefruit and green apples. A memorable and unexpected white wine from a mostly red wine appellation.

 

Denis Bouchacourt, Mâcon-Solutré — Fruity and floral, beautiful mid palate. Complete in every sense with a lovely long finish.

 

Domaine de la Saraziniere, Bourgogne Aligoté — Floral, round. Lively with a touch of tangy acid and a finish of peach and pear. Very tasty.

 

Ninot Rully 1er Cru Gresigny — Scintillating acidity yet elegant with citrus notes and sweet fruit. A hint of minerals and nuts with a long finish.

 

Sylvain Pataille, Marsannay — Nose of white flowers, fruity flavours, round and sweet, soft effervescent acids. A beautifully presented wine.